&
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Coming Soon - My Review of (Uncle: ) Somender Singh's Groovy Head Mod
Coming Soon!!!+!
My Review of (Uncle: ) Somender Singh's Groovy Head Mod
http://www.somender-singh.com/
For those of you who came in late - first look up earlier post on Somender Singh's very Indian and therefore our very own inventor and ace Yezdi (and not just Yezdi's)tuner who made waves with his groove tech and currently has a patent for the same and is battling for proper attention from big auto manufacturers.
Well, I did the groove thing on one of my Roadkings - which had just come back from a block and piston job. So results were delayed till I could subtract the running-in from the actual modification while the bike was under observation (yeah, yew smart alecs out there, I got eyes at the seat of my pants).
Well, i got the groove and actually have started to rave about it a bit, and i don't think i am going to stop soon (pun incidental). First, I must mail the Main Man Mr Sing and tell him muy happiness. Then, deah peeps, I shall tell all in this space.
Oh yes, I got so exuberant with one groove in my roadking that i opened up my stock (!) roadking - the black rider who has a standard block and piston, original gearbox and no replacements except for gear selector cartridge springs which control the gear lever play and return- and put three grooves in there exhaustwards, so to speak...
Well, like it says right at the very beginning...
Coming Soon!!!!+!
My Review of (Uncle: ) Somender Singh's Groovy Head Mod
http://www.somender-singh.com/
For those of you who came in late - first look up earlier post on Somender Singh's very Indian and therefore our very own inventor and ace Yezdi (and not just Yezdi's)tuner who made waves with his groove tech and currently has a patent for the same and is battling for proper attention from big auto manufacturers.
Well, I did the groove thing on one of my Roadkings - which had just come back from a block and piston job. So results were delayed till I could subtract the running-in from the actual modification while the bike was under observation (yeah, yew smart alecs out there, I got eyes at the seat of my pants).
Well, i got the groove and actually have started to rave about it a bit, and i don't think i am going to stop soon (pun incidental). First, I must mail the Main Man Mr Sing and tell him muy happiness. Then, deah peeps, I shall tell all in this space.
Oh yes, I got so exuberant with one groove in my roadking that i opened up my stock (!) roadking - the black rider who has a standard block and piston, original gearbox and no replacements except for gear selector cartridge springs which control the gear lever play and return- and put three grooves in there exhaustwards, so to speak...
Well, like it says right at the very beginning...
Coming Soon!!!!+!
Thursday, December 20, 2007
comes a time...when we must choose.
everywhere are 'friendly' folks willing to help you.
sometimes they take more than they give.
then you must sell to survive.
still i hang on to my pride (as in 'a bunch of feral cats')
we'll see what lasts - will to power or the world as usual —
which contains me, my yezdis and the reason why I re entered this field.
i used to think the bikes would outlast my troubles in life.
dunno bout rent, still I take it all as it impacts.
perpetually
the way it is with maintainence.
By the way, people - I just spent four full days on my Rk's front suspension.
So if you want any info on the process, just ask.
ended up making tools at the local lathe and weld shop for the same.
dunno why, I just take to the bikes when idle (which i have been a lot lately with unemployment and such)
a change is gonna come. actually it is upon me already.
so don't be surprised if you see me in your part of the country.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Friday, December 14, 2007
A poem:
Strife-Cycle?
I.
A lot
of people
hate what they loved.
Too many
of them
elbowed the shoved.
Whatever.
Whatever you'd be
tonight; forgotten me?
Why must it be.
Why must I be?
Praving for your absent pity
You've had enough of me.
Fuckin' typical, you quipped
Been so long since I tripped.
II.
Now I puke blood in your drink
tonight, drain plug worldwide kitchen sink.
Now is that the best place
to find Music From The Big Pink?
Or a maroon sump-thing and
eight engines, two wheeled magic wands -
Do they run in shifting winds or sifting sand
or just lie there mensurating rust and memories,
bleached bones, faded ink blood diaries.
III.
Who cares!?!
I know what's between my thighs.
It'll get me home.
I don't like lifts from intellectual guys.
I'd rather be stranded on some road,
Trying everything to push out the overflow.
Feeling my life-breath narrow
and my strength implode.
Then I push some more
and get back on the road.
If you've felt it then
you'd know it, Lord!
— Arunesh Dogra
I.
A lot
of people
hate what they loved.
Too many
of them
elbowed the shoved.
Whatever.
Whatever you'd be
tonight; forgotten me?
Why must it be.
Why must I be?
Praving for your absent pity
You've had enough of me.
Fuckin' typical, you quipped
Been so long since I tripped.
II.
Now I puke blood in your drink
tonight, drain plug worldwide kitchen sink.
Now is that the best place
to find Music From The Big Pink?
Or a maroon sump-thing and
eight engines, two wheeled magic wands -
Do they run in shifting winds or sifting sand
or just lie there mensurating rust and memories,
bleached bones, faded ink blood diaries.
III.
Who cares!?!
I know what's between my thighs.
It'll get me home.
I don't like lifts from intellectual guys.
I'd rather be stranded on some road,
Trying everything to push out the overflow.
Feeling my life-breath narrow
and my strength implode.
Then I push some more
and get back on the road.
If you've felt it then
you'd know it, Lord!
— Arunesh Dogra
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
What's Your Point?
I never try and explain how points should be set. Mathilda had more than half a cm of play on the cam caused by cracks radiating outwards from the bearing housing in the main crankcase itself.
So I ended up learning points the wrong way around. I learnt about how the clutch, points, and carb systems overlap instead of starting properly by distinguishing these systems seperately. Nobody believes me that i can adust any one of these systems to compensate for what might be lacking in either of the other two systems.
Anyway, points are set by first finding TDC. That's the highest point the piston reaches. (1) Then measuring the right point BTDC (before Top Dead Centre) for the points to start opening. The most fixed measurement I have found is 3.5cms BTDC. You could do this by removing a silencer bent pipe and probably using a permanent marker on the piston inside to figure it out. (2) Next to set the range, according to how much the points should be closing, at TDC. (3) Vary this range by rotating the entire magnet assembly and not the face plate on which the points are mounted. (4) Beyond this point, the bike's individual characterstics take over.
So there is no point :)in explaining it any further.
Oh yea, the lower pic is of the 350cc twin Jawa.
Okeh peeps, dis is where you check your chain tension. Reach thru dem spokes and slide the 'patti' holding the round disc in place. Choose a finger you want to dirty and push up/down on the chain to guage tension. They are lovely chain covers that really, really, really extend the life of your chain.
Two things:
ALWAYS US A DOUBLE NUT ON THE BOLT SECURING THE TWO HALVES OF YR CHAIN AT THE BACK!
Or get a bolt that will take a split pin through it to keep the nut in place.
If you do not do this, some time soooner or laaater, that nut will fall off and your chain guard will wrap itself around your sprocket which will punch holes in your chain guard and the rear wheel will lock-jam solid and you will slide. Try finding the chain lock link on a jammed chain where you cannot remove the chain cover!
How's that for wise words from a wise rider?
Rear Wheel Removal - Jawa & Yezdi
Here's an uber tip:
The genesis of this is an experience I had bout 8:30 p.m in my garrage, when I had the bike up on brix (under deh mainstand)and took the rear wheel off. At some point the old Model B tilted forward and the additional angle took her off the stand...
...do you know what an effort it is to put a Yez back on mainstand without a rear wheel!?! Your heart is till churning from the crash it made when it landed on the silencers - thank gawd for those straight rod silencer and footpeg holders that the Mod B has as memories of Jawa!
...you still haven't got my point. Let me repeat, do you know what an effort it is to put a .....especially if you are five feet six inches and weigh at most 58 kilos.
It took some time, I'll tell you that much. :)
I also got to figure out that if you want to counter balance a Y-bike against your weight you gotta lean far out of the boat like them sailors do with tall masted sailing ships (yea, the kind that do the America Cup). Well, it was bout 20 degrees off the ground.
Just lean over the seat and remove the rear wheel from that position.
I got this from looking at the pic in the Jawa Owner's manual.
(Those sure are sexed-out silencers, eh? Lemme know if you got a pair, I wants them for my preciousss CZ.)
The genesis of this is an experience I had bout 8:30 p.m in my garrage, when I had the bike up on brix (under deh mainstand)and took the rear wheel off. At some point the old Model B tilted forward and the additional angle took her off the stand...
...do you know what an effort it is to put a Yez back on mainstand without a rear wheel!?! Your heart is till churning from the crash it made when it landed on the silencers - thank gawd for those straight rod silencer and footpeg holders that the Mod B has as memories of Jawa!
...you still haven't got my point. Let me repeat, do you know what an effort it is to put a .....especially if you are five feet six inches and weigh at most 58 kilos.
It took some time, I'll tell you that much. :)
I also got to figure out that if you want to counter balance a Y-bike against your weight you gotta lean far out of the boat like them sailors do with tall masted sailing ships (yea, the kind that do the America Cup). Well, it was bout 20 degrees off the ground.
First, remove the rear axle as shown.
Just lean over the seat and remove the rear wheel from that position.
I got this from looking at the pic in the Jawa Owner's manual.
(Those sure are sexed-out silencers, eh? Lemme know if you got a pair, I wants them for my preciousss CZ.)
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
10 Yezdi Laws!
Here are some of my golden rules:
1. Spend some time alone with your bike.
2. Treat it like you would a horse. (Read the classic book, Black Beauty for tips on how a horse should and should not be treated. For example, a good rider always covers and tends to his horse before looking to his own comforts at the end of a hard ride. Here the least you can do is invest in a 100 buck bike cover and cover your bike every night, eh?)
3. Clean it every morning. (That way you will give the bike a through once over, moving from part to part as you clean it and spot any loose nuts and leaks before you get on the road.)
4. Collect all available literature in the form of manuals, engine cutaway diagrams, etc. Also ask questions about what this part is or what is being done at the moment, when at the mechanix.
5. Don't give up yet. We ALL die when the bike does not start. In fact the one common factor that all Yezdi owners have is the straight face when the bike suddenly dies out and your pillion wants to know what happened or what will 'we' do now? Instead step back, regain your strength in whatever time it takes to do so and approach the bike differently.
I know; sometimes all you can do is clean the plug, check the spark, turn the fuel on and off and/or push and you have already tried all these things and the bike still won't start and there you are in the middle of nowhere, too exhausted to even think what you might be doing next, breathing and sweating hard. Times like these, you wonder if there is any meaning to your entire life. In short, we have all been there.
6. Bring back everything that has been replaced. You never know when you will run out of parts available in the market and have to make your own (Oh yes, that day is coming!) This also puts the brakes on mechanix who might be swapping bad parts for the better ones on your bike. Who knows if the mechie has a richer, older patron who is demanding a part that can no longer be found in spare part shop stocks. For example, guard your bike monograms, foot pegs, tank rubber pads and carburettor covers. Increasingly, these bits can only be found on other bikes. To me it's a little like not leaving behind anyone on the battle field.
7. Do not steal. Let your bike be a collection of clean energies and tell your self you and your bike will always be righteous. (This includes the rare parts mentioned in the previous law - #6)
8. Performance comes second to basic function. If your bike starts and runs, that is most of the problem solved. Most road bikes are creatures of compromise on numerous fronts. Manufacturers have to cater to the main midstream of buyers and do not sacrifice drivability for performance unless they have a range of models on offer.
In case of our own Ideal Jawa, the Roadking is the performance engine. It makes you ignore the bit in the owner's manual that suggests you don't give in to 'the impulse to be the first off at a red light.' Well, given the brakes and the fact that all Y-bikes hate traffic, I end up ahead of the pack at a red light and let rip so I don't have to deal with idiots in front of me. They are all behind me!
In short:
1. Spend some time alone with your bike.
2. Treat it like you would a horse. (Read the classic book, Black Beauty for tips on how a horse should and should not be treated. For example, a good rider always covers and tends to his horse before looking to his own comforts at the end of a hard ride. Here the least you can do is invest in a 100 buck bike cover and cover your bike every night, eh?)
3. Clean it every morning. (That way you will give the bike a through once over, moving from part to part as you clean it and spot any loose nuts and leaks before you get on the road.)
4. Collect all available literature in the form of manuals, engine cutaway diagrams, etc. Also ask questions about what this part is or what is being done at the moment, when at the mechanix.
5. Don't give up yet. We ALL die when the bike does not start. In fact the one common factor that all Yezdi owners have is the straight face when the bike suddenly dies out and your pillion wants to know what happened or what will 'we' do now? Instead step back, regain your strength in whatever time it takes to do so and approach the bike differently.
I know; sometimes all you can do is clean the plug, check the spark, turn the fuel on and off and/or push and you have already tried all these things and the bike still won't start and there you are in the middle of nowhere, too exhausted to even think what you might be doing next, breathing and sweating hard. Times like these, you wonder if there is any meaning to your entire life. In short, we have all been there.
6. Bring back everything that has been replaced. You never know when you will run out of parts available in the market and have to make your own (Oh yes, that day is coming!) This also puts the brakes on mechanix who might be swapping bad parts for the better ones on your bike. Who knows if the mechie has a richer, older patron who is demanding a part that can no longer be found in spare part shop stocks. For example, guard your bike monograms, foot pegs, tank rubber pads and carburettor covers. Increasingly, these bits can only be found on other bikes. To me it's a little like not leaving behind anyone on the battle field.
7. Do not steal. Let your bike be a collection of clean energies and tell your self you and your bike will always be righteous. (This includes the rare parts mentioned in the previous law - #6)
8. Performance comes second to basic function. If your bike starts and runs, that is most of the problem solved. Most road bikes are creatures of compromise on numerous fronts. Manufacturers have to cater to the main midstream of buyers and do not sacrifice drivability for performance unless they have a range of models on offer.
In case of our own Ideal Jawa, the Roadking is the performance engine. It makes you ignore the bit in the owner's manual that suggests you don't give in to 'the impulse to be the first off at a red light.' Well, given the brakes and the fact that all Y-bikes hate traffic, I end up ahead of the pack at a red light and let rip so I don't have to deal with idiots in front of me. They are all behind me!
In short:
- Wanna preserve - get a Jawa.
- Wanna commute - get a Yezdi.
- Wanna rip - get a Roadking.
Modify a yezdi and you must be idle, rich or an impromptu engineer. Who cares, obviously you have yet to experience the thrill of a Roadking.
Which brings me to the next law...
9. Modify a jawa (!) and me and my mates will kill you. Period. We appreciate the jawa for what it is and we dont screw around with heritage bikes.
10. Change your road attitude. On an old bike like a Yezdi, you are sure to be noticed. Some will comment, only the real dudes will stop and politely engage you in a conversation. Stick your chest out, lounge on the bike at red lights and look around kingly-like. Try doing it on a modern 100-220cc motorcycle stepped-seat and you are going to wonder why your arse is sticking out in that undignified manner. You got a yezdi and she fills up your senses like Annie's s(hl)ong.
Stop cursing everybody on the road and smile instead. Hey! your bike is different, so why have the same cruddy attitude as everybody!?!
Face it, you are in a different world on a Y-bike.
Monday, December 10, 2007
Thursday, December 6, 2007
1929-30 Jawa OHV 500 Wanderer
1930-32 Jawa OHV 500 Wanderer (new frame)
1932-47 Jawa 175
1934-37 Jawa SV 350
1935-40 Jawa OHV 350
1937-40 Jawa 250 Duplex
1937-40 Jawa 98cc 100 Robot
1939-45 World War II
1946-53 Jawa type 11 250cc Perak “Feather”
1948-54 Jawa type 12 & 18 350cc -Ogar 350
1952-62 Jawa type OHV 500 -
type 15/01 500cc - redigned as type 15/02 in 1953
1954-58 Jawa 50cc typ 50 Pionyr “Treestump” (Manet)
1954-57 Jawa/CZ 125cc type 351 Kyvacka or “Swinger”
1954-57 Jawa/CZ type 352 150cc
1954 Jawa 250cc type 353 - Ammeter in gas tank
1955 Jawa 250cc type 353/02 - combined kick &gear lever
1956 Jawa 250cc type 353/03 - with full size hubs
1957-62 Jawa 250cc type 353/04 - with long exhausts & headlight ingition location
1955-62 Jawa 250cc type 553 ISDT
1955-62 Jawa 350cc type 554 ISDT
1955-58 Jawa 50cc type 550 (Manet)
1960 Jawa 50cc type 551 - moped
1957-62 Jawa 50cc type 552 Stadion
1962-65 Jawa type 353/07 Supersport - fitted with 557 Motocross engine)
1954-66 Jawa 350cc type 354 - same as 353
1955 Jawa type 354/02 - combined kick &gear lever
1957 Jawa type 354/03 - with full size hubs
1957-62 Jawa 350cc type 557 Motocross
1957-62 Jawa 350cc type 558 Motocross
1958-63 Jawa type 354/04 - with long exhausts & headlight ingition location.
1956-61 Jawa/CZ 125cc type 355
1956-61 Jawa/CZ 175cc type 356
1962-66 Jawa 50cc type 05 (Manet)
1963 Jawa type 559/03 Automatic
1964-74 Jawa 250cc type 559
1963-65 Jawa 250cc type 579/01 Motocross
1962-65 Jawa 250cc type 579/02 ISDT
1963-65 Jawa typ 575/01 350cc Motocross - 344cc single
1962-65 Jawa 350cc type 575/02 ISDT -344cc single
1964-70 Jawa 350cc type 360
1965-70 Jawa 250cc type 590
1965-70 Jawa 350cc type 361
1965-85 Jawa 250cc type 652 ISDT
1965-85 Jawa 350cc type 653 ISDT
1966-80 Jawa 50cc type 20 (Manet)
1967-77 Jawa 50cc type 21 (Manet)
1967-75 250cc Jawa type 590/591 Californian - 1968 and later model had upturned pipes.
1967-75 Jawa 350cc type 362/363 Californian - with oil pump: Oilmaster. North American models had oil pumps after 1970; upturned pipes after 1968.
1968-73 Jawa 90cc type 30&31 Cross 90 Offroad -hi-pipe
Manet model type 5330 & type 5331
1967-73 Jawa 90cc type 36&37 Cross 90 Roadster - lo-pipe Manet model type 5336 & type 5337
1968- Jawa 50cc type 23 (Manet)- Mustang/Golden Sport
1970-73 Jawa 250cc type 623 Bison
1970-73 Jawa 350cc type 633 Bison
1970-74 Jawa 50cc type 208 Babetta (Manet) - moped
1971–75 Jawa 500cctype 692 Speedway
1974- Jawa 50cc type 207,210,213,215,225,300 (Manet)- moped 1974-81 Jawa 350cc type 634
1974- Jawa typ 638/639 350cc -Type 639 is a cruiser still in production.
1930-32 Jawa OHV 500 Wanderer (new frame)
1932-47 Jawa 175
1934-37 Jawa SV 350
1935-40 Jawa OHV 350
1937-40 Jawa 250 Duplex
1937-40 Jawa 98cc 100 Robot
1939-45 World War II
1946-53 Jawa type 11 250cc Perak “Feather”
1948-54 Jawa type 12 & 18 350cc -Ogar 350
1952-62 Jawa type OHV 500 -
type 15/01 500cc - redigned as type 15/02 in 1953
1954-58 Jawa 50cc typ 50 Pionyr “Treestump” (Manet)
1954-57 Jawa/CZ 125cc type 351 Kyvacka or “Swinger”
1954-57 Jawa/CZ type 352 150cc
1954 Jawa 250cc type 353 - Ammeter in gas tank
1955 Jawa 250cc type 353/02 - combined kick &gear lever
1956 Jawa 250cc type 353/03 - with full size hubs
1957-62 Jawa 250cc type 353/04 - with long exhausts & headlight ingition location
1955-62 Jawa 250cc type 553 ISDT
1955-62 Jawa 350cc type 554 ISDT
1955-58 Jawa 50cc type 550 (Manet)
1960 Jawa 50cc type 551 - moped
1957-62 Jawa 50cc type 552 Stadion
1962-65 Jawa type 353/07 Supersport - fitted with 557 Motocross engine)
1954-66 Jawa 350cc type 354 - same as 353
1955 Jawa type 354/02 - combined kick &gear lever
1957 Jawa type 354/03 - with full size hubs
1957-62 Jawa 350cc type 557 Motocross
1957-62 Jawa 350cc type 558 Motocross
1958-63 Jawa type 354/04 - with long exhausts & headlight ingition location.
1956-61 Jawa/CZ 125cc type 355
1956-61 Jawa/CZ 175cc type 356
1962-66 Jawa 50cc type 05 (Manet)
1963 Jawa type 559/03 Automatic
1964-74 Jawa 250cc type 559
1963-65 Jawa 250cc type 579/01 Motocross
1962-65 Jawa 250cc type 579/02 ISDT
1963-65 Jawa typ 575/01 350cc Motocross - 344cc single
1962-65 Jawa 350cc type 575/02 ISDT -344cc single
1964-70 Jawa 350cc type 360
1965-70 Jawa 250cc type 590
1965-70 Jawa 350cc type 361
1965-85 Jawa 250cc type 652 ISDT
1965-85 Jawa 350cc type 653 ISDT
1966-80 Jawa 50cc type 20 (Manet)
1967-77 Jawa 50cc type 21 (Manet)
1967-75 250cc Jawa type 590/591 Californian - 1968 and later model had upturned pipes.
1967-75 Jawa 350cc type 362/363 Californian - with oil pump: Oilmaster. North American models had oil pumps after 1970; upturned pipes after 1968.
1968-73 Jawa 90cc type 30&31 Cross 90 Offroad -hi-pipe
Manet model type 5330 & type 5331
1967-73 Jawa 90cc type 36&37 Cross 90 Roadster - lo-pipe Manet model type 5336 & type 5337
1968- Jawa 50cc type 23 (Manet)- Mustang/Golden Sport
1970-73 Jawa 250cc type 623 Bison
1970-73 Jawa 350cc type 633 Bison
1970-74 Jawa 50cc type 208 Babetta (Manet) - moped
1971–75 Jawa 500cctype 692 Speedway
1974- Jawa 50cc type 207,210,213,215,225,300 (Manet)- moped 1974-81 Jawa 350cc type 634
1974- Jawa typ 638/639 350cc -Type 639 is a cruiser still in production.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Be All..
By general standards, I must be a sucker but I can't shake this feeling that there is a judgement coming and it shall be bigger than my paltry thoughts and feelings. That's what makes me shake and pray for all my transgressors. Somewhere in the vast background scheme of things, I feel something begin to turn. And I feel like drawing him, her and them close to me to protect them. But I cannot. I can only tend to my little garden. They can all take their chances without me to misdirect them.
_______________________________
266 days ago Nursed a butterfly. Picked him up from the road while walking my dog. He sat quitely in my palm for the rest of the walk. He would stir and move his wings when i blew softly at him. I put him on a flower tree in my bike yard. Few hours of sun and he flew off to a nearby tree. An hour later, I was standing around and he came to visit me. I tried to see if he’ll come onto my finger but he avoided me.
____________________________________
Ever tuned your bike to butterflies!!!>??!!!?!!!??!?!?!?!?????????
I have butterflies in my bikeyard, on my helmets and my bikes.
Call me an aging hippie if you will (anyone seen pink floyd's live at pompie concert? all bell bottoms, bare feet and butterfly t-shirts. still i tune a roadking by the roadside and ai see a butterfly!
So i know i must be tuning right. I see a couple of smaller yellows fly by in twenny seconds an I know must make delicate adujstments to the two screws. Then I see a bumble bee and know I have gone too far on the idling screw. Then I see a few teeny white small ones (bout half a cm) go by and I know I must make a few small adjustments and ai am hoem free.
Now tell me --- whatever you might have in your mind regarding dudes who tune roadkings to butterflies and I shall ask you somewhat politely to regard the pic in this post.
[Apologies to my audience of the feminine persuasion, which might just come down to the number two, but V. pls xcs the lingua franca since all us nice guys lead double lives at the mechie's shop.]
In case yew still need placating, heres a nice one to boot:
_______________________________
266 days ago Nursed a butterfly. Picked him up from the road while walking my dog. He sat quitely in my palm for the rest of the walk. He would stir and move his wings when i blew softly at him. I put him on a flower tree in my bike yard. Few hours of sun and he flew off to a nearby tree. An hour later, I was standing around and he came to visit me. I tried to see if he’ll come onto my finger but he avoided me.
____________________________________
Ever tuned your bike to butterflies!!!>??!!!?!!!??!?!?!?!?????????
I have butterflies in my bikeyard, on my helmets and my bikes.
Call me an aging hippie if you will (anyone seen pink floyd's live at pompie concert? all bell bottoms, bare feet and butterfly t-shirts. still i tune a roadking by the roadside and ai see a butterfly!
So i know i must be tuning right. I see a couple of smaller yellows fly by in twenny seconds an I know must make delicate adujstments to the two screws. Then I see a bumble bee and know I have gone too far on the idling screw. Then I see a few teeny white small ones (bout half a cm) go by and I know I must make a few small adjustments and ai am hoem free.
Now tell me --- whatever you might have in your mind regarding dudes who tune roadkings to butterflies and I shall ask you somewhat politely to regard the pic in this post.
[Apologies to my audience of the feminine persuasion, which might just come down to the number two, but V. pls xcs the lingua franca since all us nice guys lead double lives at the mechie's shop.]
In case yew still need placating, heres a nice one to boot:
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Sunday, November 25, 2007
How Does A Motorcycle Work?
Easy. A motor-ised-bycycle, or mo'bike to shorten it's name is a motor-on-a-bycycle. Evolution changed it since but here is the breakdown.
Bycyles consist of a wheel with a hinge next to it and a longer end that trails behind. Imagine looking at a bycycle from above. The hinge is the place where the front wheel and handlebars, which are one unit, pivots on a joint and the trailing end. The trailing end consists of the main frame, engine, tank, back wheel, seat, and suchlike, all combined in one single unit.
Now for a quick bit of physics. Law of conservation of momentum. If you push the hinged thingy described above, applied pressure to the handlebars, made it turn, in a short while while it will straighten itself out. That's just how it is made.
What makes it work is the human rider and his invention. Believe me, too little speed (actually increasing engine power applied to the back, trailing wheel) and the bike will not straighten itself out. You also have to control the thousands of little changes that happen to an object in rolling motion in one plane. You inculcate a sense of two-wheel balance and practise it till it is ingrained in your sub-conscious.
Now that you know the principle and the rider, lets look at the ride (bike). 3 main systems:
1. Fuel System consisting of fuel control, regulation and delivery: That means stuff like the tank, hoses, carburettor or fuel injection in case of newer bikes, and the accellerator or throttle and the cable connecting it to the carb/processor/pump.
2. Mechanical System: The internal combustion engine with attached gearbox and sometimes a kickstart. The carb is also connected to the motor. Incidentally, the frame, seat, side panels, front and rear mudguard are not really parts of the mechanical system. They are fixed to each other as rigidly as possible. Both wheels ride on 'suspension' which uses springs on/in tubes and oil/gas containers to handle road bumps and irregularities. The connection between engine and rear wheel is usually a chain riding on two toothed wheel-sprokets. Finally the brakes are also part of the mechanical system.
3. Electrical System: That means generator or dynamo, storage or battery, spark inducing system for the engine to 'fire' and of course, lights.
These three systems have to work together in appropriate harmony for the bike to work properly.
For the evolution of the modern motorcycle, I suggest just start by pouring over photographs of bikes through the ages.
Easy. A motor-ised-bycycle, or mo'bike to shorten it's name is a motor-on-a-bycycle. Evolution changed it since but here is the breakdown.
Bycyles consist of a wheel with a hinge next to it and a longer end that trails behind. Imagine looking at a bycycle from above. The hinge is the place where the front wheel and handlebars, which are one unit, pivots on a joint and the trailing end. The trailing end consists of the main frame, engine, tank, back wheel, seat, and suchlike, all combined in one single unit.
Now for a quick bit of physics. Law of conservation of momentum. If you push the hinged thingy described above, applied pressure to the handlebars, made it turn, in a short while while it will straighten itself out. That's just how it is made.
What makes it work is the human rider and his invention. Believe me, too little speed (actually increasing engine power applied to the back, trailing wheel) and the bike will not straighten itself out. You also have to control the thousands of little changes that happen to an object in rolling motion in one plane. You inculcate a sense of two-wheel balance and practise it till it is ingrained in your sub-conscious.
Now that you know the principle and the rider, lets look at the ride (bike). 3 main systems:
1. Fuel System consisting of fuel control, regulation and delivery: That means stuff like the tank, hoses, carburettor or fuel injection in case of newer bikes, and the accellerator or throttle and the cable connecting it to the carb/processor/pump.
2. Mechanical System: The internal combustion engine with attached gearbox and sometimes a kickstart. The carb is also connected to the motor. Incidentally, the frame, seat, side panels, front and rear mudguard are not really parts of the mechanical system. They are fixed to each other as rigidly as possible. Both wheels ride on 'suspension' which uses springs on/in tubes and oil/gas containers to handle road bumps and irregularities. The connection between engine and rear wheel is usually a chain riding on two toothed wheel-sprokets. Finally the brakes are also part of the mechanical system.
3. Electrical System: That means generator or dynamo, storage or battery, spark inducing system for the engine to 'fire' and of course, lights.
These three systems have to work together in appropriate harmony for the bike to work properly.
For the evolution of the modern motorcycle, I suggest just start by pouring over photographs of bikes through the ages.
Monday, October 15, 2007
How2:Jawa353Engine.Part2
Let's start you on a journey
into your own
inner space.
Since time has
no meaning to forever bikes,
let's go to the source
of the magic:
How2:Jawa353Engine.Part2
GEARBOX DIS_ASSEMBLY
GEARBOX DIS_ASSEMBLY
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
How2:Jawa353Engine.Part1
Let's start you on a journey into your own inner space. Since time has no meaning to forever bikes, let's go to the source of the magic: How2:Jawa353Engine.Part1:
Start by removing all the things that are likely to get in your way to the engine. On the Jawa, this means removing all the copious petticoats that this lady is enshrouded in.
Remove the obvious seat and spark plug lead. Leave the plug in since it'll keep foreign particles from getting into the engine. Imagine the effect of iron particles or fillings that might strip off nuts or other metal parts getting into your engine — instant abrasion and wear that is unnatural. So do your bike a favour and plug all openings that might allow dirt to get into it with wads of cloth. This philosophy extends to long-term storage as well; as Fatty or Chef Vivek, of Yamaha RD350 acumen advised me years back. Plugging the silencers with cloth ensures that the entire engine is sealed or blocked to any harm from the outside world.
Next, remove the air filter or air filter connection, depending on how old is your Jawa, and unscrew the threaded top cover of the carburettor. Remove the slide from inside the carb, taking great pains not to bend the long brass needle extending from below the slide. Wrap in soft cloth and put the slide end into a grocery plastic bag, alongside, unscrew the two screws holding the throttle grip to the end of the right handlebar. In case of the internally cabled throttle slide, remove the single screw holding the metal plug at the end of the slide grip. Slip off the throttle grip, dismantle and disengage the ball end of the throttle cable from the grip. Keep aside safely till re-assembly.
Don't stop here, start removing the carb itself. The older ones have a circlip that can be loosened by using a screwdriver, newer Jawas have threaded studs extending from the back of the cylinder, on either side of the carb inlet opening.
Studs, for the newbies, are like bolts that don't have a head on one end. Instead they have threads on both ends, enabling them to be screwed (ahem) from both ends. Told you, old ladies don't like studs, be they in the inlet or exhaust ends. However studs are used because they are better than bolts, so try and not substitute these with bolts if they break or worse, break off inside the hole. Any Yezdi/Jawa road warrior will tell you about stud troubles. Newbies can stop grinning at this point and go look up how to use a lock-nut on a stud. You will need to know when you face these inevitable troubles.
Having thus warmed up, you can start working on removing the side skirts. Open the nuts on the right side, holding the centre cowling to the brake lever, and the nut holding the brake lever to the two-piece front foot peg. Remember to loosen or open up the brake retainer from the wheel hub end, or else you would not be able to remove things without a potentially damaging struggle. Dunno about you, but I enjoy the activity and take every opportunity to sit back and stare at the bike. Things automatically come to mind and like a rock climber studying the cliff face for hand and foot holds, soon you will be able to chart a course in terms what you must do in order to do what you want to do, etc. In short, take time out to figure out your procedure, or regret it when you get stuck or must pay the price. Sun Tzu said, "Much computation brings triumph; little computation brings defeat."
Move on to the rear foot peg on the same side, and remove the bolt holding the side cowling panel to the rear foot peg support rod. You might not need to remove both nuts at the rear foot peg, as the side cowling is just attached to one of the two bolts. Move up to the point where the tank ends, remove the long bolt that holds the rear of the tank and the side cowling to the frame.I hope you are keeping all the bolts you remove safely. There is no ego loss in writing them down in the order you remove them, I have spent up to 3 hours on two shock absorber bolts that won't go into place because over the years, they have worn or warped according to their location. So be careful, old ladies are cranky about you not putting things back where you took them from!
Another good idea is to simply replace them where they came from, after you remove the part they were holding in place. Provided, of course, that they won't get in the way of future steps in the procedure. Keep computing as you go along, lads. There is no substitute for a thoughtful mech.
Remove the two bolts holding the bottom edge of the side cowling from the other side (gear lever side) of the bike. Open the left side compartment (it's the bigger one that has been designed to accommodate the battery) and remove the three bolts holding the compartment in place. These three bolts can be replaced into their threaded holes on the rear foot peg support rod (two bolts) and the remaining one in the hole on the metal strip extending perpendicularly outwards from the main frame tube behind the engine. If you had been computing what you see, you would have figured this bit out by yourself.
Why open the left side specifically? Well, because that's what it says in the Jawa 353 workshop manual. Engines to be removed and mounted onto the frame from the left hand side of the bike. Good enough for me, I personally wouldn't even want to know what goes wrong any other way; too expensive in terms of possibility.
Coming to the chain, a longish and messy business if you don't mean business. It is always a good idea to slacken the chain slightly by loosening the rear axle and the chain adjuster nuts at the rear axle-shock absorber joint. Look up your owner's manual (now available online somewhere else, I'm sure) for which are chain adjusters. Remove the right hand side engine cover, so that you can see the chain on the front sprocket. Just behind the triangular 'samosa' shaped clutch mechanism. Just follow the clutch cable where it comes into the engine, and you will find your 'samosa.'
Put the bike into neutral and turn the wheel, watching the chain for the link which has the chain lock on it. It's actually quite simple, just use a large screwdriver's flat head to push the 'U' shaped clip/lock on the side of the link facing you. That is the way it is always assembled, with the chain lock clip outwards, and that is exactly how you will replace it later. Removing the clip enables the flat figure-of-eight shaped side piece of the link to come off the link. Just remove the other figure-of-eight shaped piece with the two straight bits sticking out of it from the other side of the chain, and it's in your hand. Now go to the rear end of the chain guard and remove the single bolt and nut holding the two halves of the chain guard together. Remove both chain and chain cover for washing and re-greasing. A good idea is to fish out a small plastic bag, and put the greasy chain into it. This will keep it clean, and the surroundings and you as well.
Now for removing the exhaust bent pipes that connect the cylinder and the silencers. If you are one of the lucky ones with an original Jawa toolkit, you will find the requisite spanners to open the 'flower' shaped bent pipe retainers at the cylinder end. You can, in a pinch, cover the head of a large screwdriver with a doubled up piece of tyre tube to absorb shocks, and lightly tap the base of the 'petals' of the retainer. Take care, you are not allowed to break the petals just because you were too blind to see they were rusted or jammed and could be easily opened tomorrow after spraying some WD-40 (approx 130-180 rupees for a small spray can). So go lighter, rather than harder and you shall not damage anything.
Twist the bent pipes outwards and down, to remove them from the silencers. Notice the copper-looking ring that fits over the end that goes into the cylinder; you will have to replace these. It is a good idea to check inside the darkness of the pipes themselves to see how much carbon deposit has formed, as it can eventually constrict the 'breathing' of the engine, if not dislodged. Well, dislodged periodically, actually.
Two-strokes are by nature, prone to more carbon formation. It's in their blood, er, petrol-oil mixture, actually. Some of it can be got at with a long screwdriver, or with an old bike chain being dragged back and forth inside the pipe, or just consult any local mech for the messy jobs.
Speaking of messy jobs, it's time to get down on your hands and knees and locate the gearbox oil draining bolt under the engine. Get a container under it, and open slowly, taking care not to drop the bloody thing into the container itself — it's been known to happen. Stay in that position till you are sure the oil has drained, and oh yes! make sure you use a container that can hold at least a litre or you shall have to mop the floor too. Rock the bike slightly on the stand slightly from side to side or forwards and backwards in order to drain as much oil out as you can.
Step back and ask yourself if all you need to do next is remove the main (sometimes called 'foundation') bolts that actually hold the engine in place. Proceed towards the engine mounting bolts with two spanners or one spanner and a ratchet, or whatever, You still have to anchor one end of the bolt while opening the other. I, personally have replaced the nuts here with lock nuts. Those are the ones which have a nylon collar or ring inset into the threads at one end. The nylon holds on to the bolt threads for dear life. Leave the uppermost bolts at the front and back for last. Make sure you are removing the engine from the frame from the left side of the bike. Jawa engines are asymmetric in shape and the side with the chain is longer at the back than the left side one which houses the clutch and electrics, that's why. But then, if you have been looking at the engine, you oughta have noticed it by now...and perhaps imagined that the engine is heavy, also likely to be slippery with oil/grease/dirt, therefore difficult to hold. I use work gloves and a nice wide stance, so as not to crush a vertebrae or something due to bad posture, get a nice grip on both sides and lift it straight down onto the cloth/mat placed there earlier by me, to provide a soft landing pad.
The rest of the operation can almost literally happen on your laptop. Or you could lock yourself in your bed room with lots of newspaper spread out on the floor.
[EndofPart1]
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Somendra Singh ka Legendary Masala & More about the Dean of Yezdi Tuners
The man:
http://somender-singh.com
My first web encounter:
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/futurecar/19b09aa138b84010vgnvcm1000004eecbccdrcrd.html
Discussions around Somendra's patented 'Grove' head techology:
http://www.autoblog.com/2005/10/09/somender-singh-garage-genius-or-crank/
http://pesn.com/2005/10/13/9600187_Design_to_Improve_Turbulence_in_Combustion_Chambers/
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5907&start=0
http://www.mpgresearch.com/viewtopic.php?t=1144
As if debates around pro and stock racing weren't enough, someone actually recorded the sound of an engine before and after 'grooving' the cylinder head, Somender-style:
http://themoportal.com/articles/groovy.html
http://themoportal.com/articles/groovy.html
for those who didn't know somedra singh is the man behind the ace rallyist Jagat Nanjappa's Yezdi Roadking - ported, shaved piston, all bolts replaced with socket screws/allen bolts, italian front forks, (i never get tired of repeating this old description from Car & Bike International or Indian Auto Journal; I forget which) capable of cruising at 140-160 kph, and consuming something like 12-14kmpl.
Like Ganesha, longtime Kodai and Chennai haunter said they called it, 'Somendra Singh ka Masala'
http://somender-singh.com
My first web encounter:
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/futurecar/19b09aa138b84010vgnvcm1000004eecbccdrcrd.html
Discussions around Somendra's patented 'Grove' head techology:
http://www.autoblog.com/2005/10/09/somender-singh-garage-genius-or-crank/
http://pesn.com/2005/10/13/9600187_Design_to_Improve_Turbulence_in_Combustion_Chambers/
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5907&start=0
http://www.mpgresearch.com/viewtopic.php?t=1144
As if debates around pro and stock racing weren't enough, someone actually recorded the sound of an engine before and after 'grooving' the cylinder head, Somender-style:
http://themoportal.com/articles/groovy.html
http://themoportal.com/articles/groovy.html
for those who didn't know somedra singh is the man behind the ace rallyist Jagat Nanjappa's Yezdi Roadking - ported, shaved piston, all bolts replaced with socket screws/allen bolts, italian front forks, (i never get tired of repeating this old description from Car & Bike International or Indian Auto Journal; I forget which) capable of cruising at 140-160 kph, and consuming something like 12-14kmpl.
Like Ganesha, longtime Kodai and Chennai haunter said they called it, 'Somendra Singh ka Masala'
Got an email reply from Somender Singh
Somender Singh
to me
show details
Sep 28 (2 days ago)
Thanks Arunesh,
There is enough about grooving 2 stroke heads on my site & elsewhere on the net ~ check the forum for 2 stroke mods. That's about it as far as grooving goes.
I have had an overdose of Yezdis all my life no amount of suggestions made any sense to the senseless who ran the company. There is no sign of anything left at Mysore.
i am really busy with marketing my invention to the big 5 hence palying around with the yezdis is forgotten story. ( maybe Nanjappa will remember what i did to his winning bikes )
All the best in restoring jawas and yezdis.
sing !!!
to me
show details
Sep 28 (2 days ago)
Thanks Arunesh,
There is enough about grooving 2 stroke heads on my site & elsewhere on the net ~ check the forum for 2 stroke mods. That's about it as far as grooving goes.
I have had an overdose of Yezdis all my life no amount of suggestions made any sense to the senseless who ran the company. There is no sign of anything left at Mysore.
i am really busy with marketing my invention to the big 5 hence palying around with the yezdis is forgotten story. ( maybe Nanjappa will remember what i did to his winning bikes )
All the best in restoring jawas and yezdis.
sing !!!
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